How to change the Bearing on a Beko washing machine.

Beko washing machine bearing replacement, front plate models. This means the tub unit stays in the body of the cabinet and the front of the tub unit is removeable.

This procedure is a general one for the Beko range of washing machines with a removable front tub panel. Some variations to the procedure will apply as not every model is the same; however the basic procedure is good for all models.
The writer assumes you are capable of undertaking the following work and that decision is yours to make. Read the proceedure and understand it before you start.

Before commencing any work please comply with the following safety procedure

Safety 1st Procedures

Please ensure the following items are strictly complied with:

1) Switch off the Mains electricity supply to the machine
2) Remove the appliance plug from wall socket.
3) Turn off the water at the isolation taps and disconnect the inlet hoses from the appliance.
4) Create space to move around the appliance and plan where you will put the items you remove from it.

Useful items
1) Pen and Pencil for making a note of wiring connections……
2) A digital camera, take pictures as you strip down the washer and use them as reference material as you begin the rebuild.

The starting point:

1. Remove the worktop by removing the two screws at the back then slide the worktop backwards and lift off.

2. Remove the back panel by removing the five screws, Take off the drive belt. Unscrew the bolt holding on the pulley, DO NOT REMOVE FULLY. Tap the bolt lightly with a rubber mallet, or using a block of wood and a hammer, take care not to damage the bolt. This starts the release of the bearing shaft from the bearing surfaces. Remove the bolt and pull off the pulley.

3. From the front, use a flat blade screwdriver and turn the plinth pins 90 and pull panel forward, this exposes 3 screws that hold the lower front panel to the cabinet.

4. Using a small flat blade screwdriver remove the clamp from around the door seal, peel the door seal backwards releasing it from the cabinet front. Take out the three screws along the bottom of the front panel of the machine. Slide the front panel down approximately ¾”, carefully lift away until you can get to the electrical wiring plug which is connected to the door lock, and unplug this.

5. You will see the wiring to the element and thermostat, these need to be disconnected, (You need to remember which wires go where! Make notes or a photo or two).

6. Place a couple of old towels or similar on the floor in front of and under the machine, there will be some water spillage, protect your flooring from any water ingress and dirt. Now disconnect the hose which connects the tub to the soap dispenser, undo the clamp on the Tub end of the hose.
Next, loosen the bolts holding the bottom concrete weight to the tub – DO NOT REMOVE.
There are 14 clips holding the tub front in place, carefully prise these off. You can mark the position of each clip with a marker pen before removal to aid reassembly. Remove the tub front (with element in place), which now exposes the inner stainless drum. The drum will pull out toward you, if the drum is tight, from the rear of the drum, use a rubber hammer or a wooden drift and hammer to carefully knock the drum forwards. Taking great care not to damage the drum shaft. Once sufficiently loose the drum will pull out easily. At this point if the front bearing has stayed on the shaft, it will have to be removed with bearing pullers. When it is removed inspect the drum shaft for damage to the bearing surfaces, also if the bronze collar has ruts or badly scored grooves around it, it would be advisable to replace the drum shaft or drum. Do not use any abrasive material to clean up the shaft, try a Green pan scrubber from the kitchen. The water oil seal must mate to the bronze collar to prevent water ingress into the bearings, if water passes the seal it will cause premature failure of the bearings.

7. Knock out the bearings – from the inside of the tub, prise out the water oil seal and then knock out the rear bearing through the back and from the back knock out the inner bearing . Don’t rush this bit; knock around the circumference of the bearing, keeping it square as it comes out. Be careful the bearing does not fly across the kitchen as it exists the tub sleeve, you just don’t need it to hit the kitchen cabinet doors or the oven glass door!
Clean the surfaces in readiness for the new bearings, again no abrasives. Carefully knock in the new bearings and seal, taking care to insert squarely and not to damage seals etc, there are specialised tools available, but a soft faced drift and hammer will do the job, with care. Grease the water oil seal in the centre edges that contact the bronze collar of the drum shaft. At this point it is advisable that a new tub seal is fitted between the tub and tub front, the original seal has done its job and to get good water tight joint requires a new seal.

8. Reassembly is a reverse procedure. Rebuild the tub unit ensuring the 14 tub clips are all in place and fitted correctly.

9. As you rebuild, check that all wiring connections are tight and in the correct place, hoses and hose clamps are firmly fitted and tight before putting on the cabinet front.

It’s always a good idea to water test using small amounts of water rather than just letting the appliance fill, if you do have a leak it will be easier to sort. If you are able and have the correct equipment, electrical insulation tests should be carried out before use. A megger or PATS tester will do the job.